Welcome to my 121st Visit and 116th Run UN Country and Antonia’s 27th Visit UN Country out of a total of 193. This is the 3rd country of our trip.
Guatemala (Pop 18,092,026) is a Spanish speaking Republic, the size of 1.6 Tasmanias. It is bordered to the north and west by Mexico, to the northeast by Belize, to the east by Honduras, and to the southeast by El Salvador. It is touched to the south by the Pacific Ocean and to the northeast by the Gulf of Honduras. Guatemala is the most populous country in Central America. Its capital and largest city is Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción, also known as Guatemala City. The territory of modern Guatemala hosted the core of the Maya civilization, which extended across Mesoamerica. Half the current population is descendant from the Mayan. In the 16th century, most of this area was conquered by the Spanish. Guatemala attained independence in 1821 from Spain and Mexico.
Since then Guatemala has suffered at the hands of dictators and rich families including a civil war. The country is currently holding free elections but it is essentially run by ten very wealthy families with connections to Washington DC. It has many natural resources including Uranium, which allegedly is being sold to Russia. It is also rich in agricultural produce including sugar cane and bananas given its hot humid climate. The top three exports are crude oil (to USA in exchange for diesel and petrol), coffee and sugar. Although rich in export goods, around a quarter of the population (4.6 million) face food insecurity.
Our journey to Guatemala started at 0720 travelling 30min to the border in an old busted up bus with no aircon. Leaving Belize and entering Guatemala was quick and easy. A brand new Japan built Toyota Mini-Van was waiting for us on the Guatemalan side. Terrific. Great aircon. Big scenic windows. Great ride. We drove 1.5hrs to Ixlu, the birthplace of our Guide Aquilino. We even met his paternal grandfather who is 90 years old and ran several projects when Aquilino was growing up that brought running water, electricity, sewer and paved roads to this town.
After 2hrs from Ixlu, we arrived at the Archaeological Park of Tikal around 1130. Tikal is the ruin of an ancient city found in a rainforest in northern Guatemala. It is one of the largest archeological sites and urban centres of the civilization dating back to the 4th century BC. Tikal reached its population and prosperity peak from 200AD to 900AD. Up to 90,000 lived here. During this time, the city dominated much of the Maya region politically, economically, and militarily. Invasions and political unrest depleted the population and the city of Tikal was eventually abandoned by the end of the 10th Century AD. At its peak, Tikal comprised up to 3,000 limestone structures over 16 square kilometres. Excavation began in 1956 and only 5% of structures are visible. The tallest is 70m high, 50% higher than the ones I had seen before. Most structures have been consumed by the jungle as large mounds and most will probably fall apart if excavation is attempted. Tikal is UNESCO Protected and surrounded by the 570 square kilometres Tikal National Park, home to many animals such as: agoutis (like a racoon), white-nosed coatis, gray foxes, Geoffroy's spider monkeys, howler monkeys, harpy eagles, falcons, ocellated turkeys, guans, toucans, green parrots, leafcutter ants and even rare sightings of Jaguars, ocelots, and cougars. I saw two male agoutis fighting out for territory – they look cute but are vicious when provoked.
We had the choice of touring with our guide or by ourselves So I decided to go by myself In order to Have more time for footage. I was the only one. My walk got off to a bad start as it did for everyone because it poured down with rain just outside The Acropolis Plaza. After 20 minutes I ventured out. Tikal was the 5th Mayan Ruins I saw and probably the most impressive given the number of structures and the fact that many tower above the surrounding jungle canopy. The main structures are grouped into three major plazas: Acropolis, Seven Temples and The Lost World. The Acropolis is the closest and grandest where most visitors will go. The more adventurous will venture further into the jungle as far as Temple IV which was my favourite given the view of the top of the jungle far and wide. I returned to the main Acropolis Plaza where I started in rain so I could shoot in the now present sunshine. I walked a total of 11 kilometres over three elapsed hours and returned to the car park at 1430. An hour later the rest of the group turned up and we were off to our lakeside overnight village of El Remate. Along the way we stopped for what was supposed to be lunch but had in fact become dinner since it was 4pm. Antonia ate but I did not thinking I could go for a swim near our hotel. It was not to be. After our arrival at 1730, the sun was setting at 1745 and the overnight downpour began – it rained all night. Time for blogging and a movie.
My first impression of Guatemala was good. The people seem very friendly. Customs people made jokes, Shopkeepers always smiling and joking. People are short with classic Mexican type looks - so no more of the characteristic dark-skin Caribbean of Belize. After Tikal, I also learned of the many ethnic groups that form the Maya Culture. The Mayans are not a unitary race – they consist of many mixes depending on geography and language. These ethnic groups also moved around throughout Maya history (1500BC to 1500AD+).
No rain the following morning. Just cloud. We left 0700 and drove 30min to the iconic Flores Island. Flores is a tiny island with a large claim. The Mayans here were the last Central American location to hold out against the invading Spanish eventually conquered in 1697 compared to the first conquest in 1525. The island sits on the freshwater Lake Peren and measures only 1.4km in circumference and connected to the mainland by a causeway. Flores Island is characterised by its multi-coloured houses especially its doorways as you will see in the photos below. A church sits on a hill in the middle and cobblestone streets and alleys dominate around the church. Given our constant early morning starts and the fact that we were here 0730-1030 I decided to stay with the driver and run from his big car park outside the island on the mainland. My first 11km run in Guatemala was terrific. Because it was so cool I ran the fastest time so far. On my return I went for a swim in Lake Peren to wash up since the car park was on the water. Excellent planning. I tried to fly the drone to capture the island but it was blocked by the Airport and Airforce next door. Pity. I dried off and grabbed my Galaxy to capture Flores Island on foot. It did not take long to circumnavigate the little island and capture the colours that characterise it. Flores was founded in the 13th Century and most people who live on this little island have owned their properties via succession through the generations – no one sells.
At 1030 we started our 3.5hr drive to Rio Dulce. Very scenic with lush rolling hills covered in thick greenery. It rains heaps here. Guatemala is definitely more lush and green than Belize and even greener than Mexico. On arrival in Rio Dulce town (Pop 23,477) we made a stop at the only big supermarket in town still owned and run by locals. All the others are owned and run by Walmart USA. I finally found cask wine in 1L tetra packs, which makes for easy storage and no breakage due to travel. More on the Rio Dulce River in our day-trip along it tomorrow.
The van took some of our group to the hotel and came back to take us to the optional excursion to a Hot Springs Waterfall called Finca Paradiso !!! Yes you heard correctly. Seven powerful streams of hot water cascading over huge boulders up to 3m high. The water is easily 60-70C and like a hot shower. Amazing. We sat here with our backs to the water for almost 2 hours. We all had red backs !!! Antonia had to be dragged away kicking and screaming she loved it so much !!! There is steam everywhere. The crazy thing is that this hot water cools down almost immediately so just a few metres from the fall the water is 30C and relatively cooler. The trip out here only took 35min but goes through some spectacular countryside with green fields, distant mountains and the huge Rio Dulce Lake in the background.
After the hit fall, we drove straight to the port and transferred all our luggage from on top of our new minivan to the small boat waiting for us. In 10min we had chugged our way across the bay, under a huge concrete arched bridge (45m high & 830m long) to our jungle retreat hotel consisting of wooden cabins and walkways above the marshy waters. Our cabin was on the outer rim with a balcony overlooking the jungle waters. Lots of privacy and a short walk from the shared toilet/shower facilities, which are also in wooden huts above the water. This hotel complex is built on a marsh on the mainland with no road access. The only downside to staying here is that you cannot swim due to crocs and cannot run due to no road and the only place to eat is in their restaurant, which turned out to be OK in variety and price. Antonia took a break in the local fare and indulged in pasta. I went for the local Creole food of wood smoked pulled pork and beef. We slept like babies given the peace and quiet of our cabin’s remote location and it was great to wake up to the sights and sounds of water beneath you and the lush jungle all around you. Guatemala is home to many creoles who are a mix of African and European brought to Belize by the British during colonisation.
The following morning (Tue 30JAN) was our day trip to Livingston (Pop 84,711) on the Caribbean (Gulf of Guatemala) at the end of Rio Dulce. We had a visitor in the morning. A 2-3m long crocodile !!! It floated past our cabin. Aquilino mentioned that a retired American living here had released a baby croc here some years ago. I thought it was only a story and was going to swim here. Lucky for me that the croc decided to show itself !!! Before sailing down towards Livingstone we detoured to The San Felipe de Lara Fortress built 1644 by the Spanish to conquer this area. Rio Dulce is 43km long starting at freshwater Lake Izabal, flowing through more lakes and finally a narrow canyon with Livingston at the end on the mouth to the Caribbean Sea. Rio Dulce also has narrow swamps with mangroves and tons of birds. I lost count of the varieties that we saw. Chief amongst them were Cormorants but we also saw swallows, eagles, kingfishers and even two orange and green iguanas. The highlight was the limestone canyon up towering to 130m and only 200m across at the narrowest. Livingstone is run down and unkept. The highlight is its people and famous fish & shrimp soup. We all walked though the main markets and ended up at Playa Barique (beach) where we heard a local Garifuna family play their drums and danced. The others then left for lunch and I left for the Caribbean ready for my 2km swim. It was not to be. The tide was low and only knee deep for at least a kilometre out to sea. The water was also quite murky. I would have to swim far out at sea with the fishing boats which could expose me to currents so no go. I enjoyed some time in the low salt water and made my way to the restaurant where the others were. 30min later we were on the boat for a 60min non-stop ride back along Rio Dulce to our watery home. The smoked creole beef that night was melt-in-the-mouth and sleeping was easy and early given our 8-12hr journey to Antigua the next day.
Please enjoy the Mayan wonders of Tikal and the watery photos of Rio Dulce…
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